Don't Let The Location Fool Ya!

Remember the first scene in the Stanley Tucci movie Big Night? Stanley Tucci's character and his brother own an Italian restaurant. One of their customers is insisting on having a "side of spaghetti" with her risotto. The subtle loathing for uneducated customers is evident with Tucci's character. The banter that pursues is one that makes foodies cringe and chefs and restaurateurs empathize. On top of that, there's an added challenge due to the competition down the street - an Italian restaurant that features spaghetti and meatballs, booze, women, and song. So, how does an authentic Italian restaurant compete with bastardized commercial fare?

Truly one of Fairfield County's most authentic trattorias, Tuscan Oven is highly underrated, and definitely misperceived due to the restaurant's main thoroughfare location off of Route 7, at the end of the Super 7 Connector, and next door to the Department of Motor Vehicles. Need I say more? While the exterior property and structure is charming and inviting, one must venture through the doors to experience everything that owner John Paul Pirragli and father Anthonly, has created through the family's love and knowledge of Italian cuisine, tradition, and design.

The interior reflects an Italian countryside complete with vineyard arbors, hardwood furnishings, beautiful stonework and tiling, as well as vibrant colored pottery and wall hangings. An open kitchen creates a fabulous energy. Glass display cases show off fresh pastas, pastries, and those wonderful Pinot Grigio wines. The space is broken up into three sections and depending on the crowds on any given night, the management does a great job at dividing the space even further by regrouping the table layout, ensuring a comfortable and warm atmosphere no matter what the head count. This effort is the sign of a smart restaurateur. Another sign of a talented restaurateur is working closely with the most innovative chefs. Executive Chef Chris Vacca came to Tuscan Oven via the Pirraglia's restaurant, Antica Trattoria di San Lorenzo, in Perugia, Italy.

Italian food always seems to evoke a family style of dining to me. Not those large bowls of pasta that get passed around the table, but rather a variety of courses that are most enjoyed by being shared. The menu begins with antipasti ($10-$12). Scrumptious fried calamari, shrimp, and zucchini are always a light and crispy winner – never oily and the seafood remains sweet and juicy. Imported buffalo (yes, milk from the buffalo) mozzarella is married beautifully with fresh basil, tomatoes, and of course, extra virgin olive oil. Tuscan Oven also sells several imported specialty items such as fruity olive oils and aged vinegars. Carpaccio is served with spicy arugula, roasted peppers and parmigiano cheese. The steamed mussels are a real table pleaser with a scrumptious white wine, pepper, garlic and herb broth soaked up by the crunchy crostini. Salads ($6-$12) are creative and perfect for sharing. Entrée salads include a grilled beef tenderloin and Portobello salad with honey-mustard balsamic vinaigrette.

Next comes the pasta course ($9-$21, half portions offered). House made gnocchi are light and fluffy and are served with seasonal ingredients. On this particular visit they were tossed with leeks, butternut squash, prosciutto di Parma, mascarpone cheese, saffron and vegetable broth. Bucatini (long hollow pasta) is my regular dish. Simply prepared al dente with pancetta, onions, and tomatoes and finished off with pecorino romano cheese, this dish is a classic when done right. Chef Brian Limitone does this one justice. Linguini with white clam sauce and spaghetti ai frutti di mare, are filled with generous portions of cockles and crustaceans and infused with the right amount of sauce.

The aroma of homemade foccacia bread and thin crust pizza ($9-$13) fresh from the wood-burning oven is a warm welcome at Tuscan Oven. Enticing pizza toppings include fresh tomato sauce, house made mozzarella, seasonal vegetables, and grilled chicken. The broccoli rabe and sausage pizza is a real treat!

The secondi piatti, also known as the meat and/or fish course ($18-$27) includes veal scaloppini, layered with prosciutto di Parma and fresh sage, and sautéed with a lemon, herb veal glaze and topped with fresh parmesan cheese. The lamb shank osso bucco is another dish that can be terribly interpreted, but here it is fall-of-the-bone tender, braised in red wine, herbs and tomato, and served over soft polenta. Basic food done right also includes free-range rosemary chicken, roasted in the wood oven and served with mashed potatoes, sautéed garlicky escarole. Fresh fish is a highlight at Tuscan Oven and changes often depending on what's available. Simple preparations using olive oil, capers, vegetables, purees, fresh herbs, and exciting pestos seem to be the method of choice. Pan seared jumbo sea scallops, served over a roasted red pepper sauce with a risotto timbale, and grilled trio of homemade hot and sweet pork sausages served over a sweet red pepper stew with mashed potatoes and sautéed spinach is a manly dish – but, I like it too!

Anthony, an avid wine collector, is known for his educational and indulgent wine dinners. They recently won the prestigious Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for 2003. Deservingly so, the wine list offers an impressive selection of outstanding Italian wines. The wines here represent an exciting cross section of the many varietals found throughout the vine-laden countryside of Italy. Many of the white wines are light, fruity and aromatic while the red wines are bolder and deeper such has the brunello or the Super Tuscans. Wine enthusiasts will enjoy perusing the reserve list.

Dessert is a given here. Tiramisú is the Italian classic dessert made with mascarpone cheese and flavored with rich espresso. Silky crème brulee and chocolate mousse are also very good choices. Biscotti are delicious dipped in sweet dessert wine, a popular Italian practice.

So, it must be obvious to my readers that I think Tuscan Oven is on the money when it comes to creating mouthwatering Italian dishes. I'm also thrilled that they've always held true to the food and their preparations and have not compromised their commitment to quality dining by going mainstream. Think of the quirky location as a unique dining destination.

Linda Kavanagh is a restaurant industry professional and the owner of MaxEx, LLC, a boutique public relations firm specializing in the world of hospitality. Linda is the food editor of Excursionz Magazine and writes for Wilton Magazine, New England Hotel Magazine, and Food & Beverage International.
Linda@maxexposure.net